Update from Carcassonne France

            Sunday, March 25, 2012 – Today we leave Spain to begin our stay in France.  We decided to adjust our route so that we intentionally go through Andorra, because, we could and it’d be country 17.  It added additional driving time. But it was worth it. 

            We drove on a secondary road that was quite narrow and with many curves through the Broto valley, so top speed was 70 km or so.  We enjoyed the drive through the valley’s small villages.  

Our route led us through the mountain area heading to the town of Barbastro, takin us along a dam reservoir that clearly showed the lack of precipitation over the last 5 months – we couldn’t believe how low it was.  Yes, the locals are right to be concerned about what will happen this summer.   

We passed a number of towers, some in good state and others in disrepair along some of the ridges of the valley.  It has been fabulous to see so many ancient castles and fortresses over our tour.  Once we got down to the city of Barbastro, the landscape changed and now it was grape and other fruit growing area again.   There some wonderful fields with trees in full bloom announcing the arrival of spring.   We also past a valley with the ridge lined with wind turbines, spaced every 100 meters or so there must have been over 100.  We have certainly seen quite a few here in Spain.  We had also seen in our travels fields of solar panels.  We traveled south to Lleida to catch the highway to Andorra. 

            The drive northeast was beautiful and very enjoyable.  As we neared Andorra, the road had more curves and traffic picked up.  

          We went through a series of tunnels up to the Spanish/Andorran border.  We climbed from about 650 m at the border up to 2060 m to the top of the pass where we entered into France once we traveled through a 2.8 km long tunnel.  Andorra is a tax-free prinicipality with countless shops that the Spaniards and French like to go to. Besides the main road leading through this country, there are countless condo units both near the road as well as perched on the mountainsides. We stopped for gas and saved about 25 euro-cents per litre.  We stopped in Andorra La Vallee and found a Sushi restaurant and had a wonderful lunch – something we haven’t had since leaving N. Am. M took the opportunity to stock up on some Cognac as well, saving 8 euro per bottle versus France.

             As we climbed higher, we could see where the snow still was and skiers riding the lifts and gondolas to get to the runs.  Once you get past the condo and commercial overbuild, the surroundings are very rugged and picturesque.  It was a beautiful sight to see, blue sky and crisp white snowcapped peaks.  It had all three of us thinking of skiing back home and looking forward to doing that next winter. 

            Once we crossed into France, we pulled over and M and J had a snowball fight.  Must say, M got the better of J in that one (finally getting some payback for the time J and T both got M in Morocco when he back was sore and he could not even bend down to make a snowball let alone throw one)!  Our drive took us down through a series of switchbacks to take us to a much lower elevation, through the town of Ax – les T hermes, a funky spa town, past Foix then along some secondary roads past Carcasonne to a little settlement Millepetit where our next week’s accommodation is located.  By the time we hit the four lane highway is France we had climbed 1500 m and then come back down 1500 m.

            Our accommodation is in a 400 year old gite, former farm building, actually ours was part of the barn system, turned into flats.  We are in the midst of a working farm.  At one time all this land belonged to an aristocratic family who due to various circumstances now only own an immense chateau on the edge of the holding.  The Canal Midi runs along the shore right in front of the gite.  It is the world’s oldest working canal (meaning it has locks).  Boats meander up and down during the summer.  It has just been opened up this weekend and we saw one boat go by today. 

            Andrew, the owner, took us around the property and gave us a tour of the place along with the history of the holding.  There are buildings 900 years old in use here as well – this week will be yet a different experience from what we’ve had.  Their neighbors, who work part of the farm have a donkey who thinks he’s the family pet dog – as Andrew referred to him.  Sunday is his day off his leash, so he is indeed wandering.  He came right up for a nuzzle with T.  She’d never been up close to a donkey before.  There were other guests staying here and they were warned not to let him too close to their food as they were sitting at the picnic table.  It was quite funny watching the antics of “the pet”. 

            Nothing is open in the towns today – we had learned this our first time in France – last May when we picked up our car in Lyon.  Sometimes it’s even difficult to find a gas station open.  Good thing we had a few staples with us, to get us through dinner.  We have good Internet this week – finally, so we were able to Skype a few people as well as begin on our list of things to get done to finalize our return home journey in June. 

            There is a fireplace here, so we made use of it to heat up the main floor where the kitchen and living area are.  Upstairs there is no central heat, so we have another heater like the other places we’ve been to as well, there appears to be ample bedding to keep us warm. 

            Monday, March 26, 2012 – Today was our usual first day in a new place day – check out the town/village and get groceries.  The sun was shining and the birds chirping, we could see the leaves beginning to bud on some of the trees.  Across the canal are fields of fruit trees, apricot and apple that are all in bloom, it’s very pretty.  There are migrant farm workers picking asparagus with a massive field.  They pick for about 10 hours per day!  They are from Portugal, no work at home, so they come and work in France, moving from crop to crop until the fall apples are picked and they return home for a few months, before returning.

            The canal outside our door is 155 km long, built in the time of Louis XIV or “Louis Quatorze” as Andrew called him (a name for the French king that we never heard in any school we attended!).  The canal outside our spot is several km long of huge trees bordering either side, making a canopy of green once the leaves arrive.  The trees are very old.  We went for a walk several km along the far side of the canal where both cyclists and walkers are allowed on a public path system.  Spring is beginning to show around here!  M is in shorts today, we can feel the warmth in the air.

            We returned to sit outside on the terrace in front of the gite after T put a roast in the oven.  Cooking can be a challenge at some of the places we’ve rented as there aren’t always ovens or the cooking pot and pan supply is often meager.  Cooking for a week with only a 2 burner cooker was the most challenging.  This week we have oven and microwave, that can be used at the same time without blowing the circuit!  So we’ll be trying out some things we haven’t had a while.  Also, we are in a new region/country, so they’ll be new things to try anyways! 

            Tuesday, March 27, 2012 - Today we decided to go on a road trip to one of the world’s tallest bridges, Viaduc de Millau, in Millau.  We decided to travel along a main autoroute instead of through a series or narrow windy roads that will add at least another hour onto the trip and perhaps a nauseous stomach – so T and J vetoed the secondary route!  We traveled east along vineyards and farms to the city of Narbonne before heading north and then slightly west up into the mountains along a plateau to where this 2.5 km long 343 m high (to the highest point) and 270 m from the valley bottom to the bridge level.  They built this bridge to improve traffic flow from the north (Paris) to the south east coast, (Marseilles).  It was a great drive up and quite the sight.  We stopped at the rest stop and had a look at the display concerning construction – quite interesting. 

            After our photo ops, we drove into Millau (with the viaduc it is now by-passed by the through traffic), in search of a restaurant.  We found a brasserie in one of the main squares and had a wonderful lunch on the terrace.  We chose local dishes to try and were not at all disappointed with our choices – a wonderful experience.  The sun is shining and its about 24 C today.

            We returned to the gite by around 4:30 and enjoyed sitting outside near the canal.  After dinner, we went for a walk along the canal.  The sun was beginning to set and the lighting was great to take some photos.  M is beginning to exercise his artistic side with his camera! 

            Wednesday, March 28, 2012 -  Today’s trip was to Carcassonne – a truly magical well restored and preserved medieval city.  Before we arrived in this area we had never heard of this place, but after today’s visit, we’re very pleased to have had the chance to visit it.  Arriving at the Narbonne Gate took us back in time, crossing a crooked drawbridge to enter into the double walled city.  The streets are cobble and narrow ascending into a courtyard that has the cathedral, Saint Nazaire and Saint Celse Basilica, then branching off to other parts including the castle.  This place has history dating back 2500 years.  It’s probably the coolest walled city we have seen on this trip.  It reminds of us of the magical castles that are talked about in kid’s fairytale or knight books.  This first picture is of a postcard so you can see the La Cite from the air.

We stopped in at the cathedral that had wonderful stained glass windows telling various biblical stories as well as design representing the area.  It is no longer used as a parish church as very few people live within la cite anymore.

            We had a wonderful lunch at the Renaissance Restaurant, one recommended in our Rick Steeve’s book and had a delicious meal.  Both M and T had the cassoulet- duck, sausage and white beans baked in a clay dish – it was terrific.  After lunch we continued our wander through ‘La Cite’ cobbled streets.  We toured the castle/fortress (where “Robin Hood Prince of Thieves” scenes from the Nottingham Castle were filmed) learning about and seeing the different lines of defense the soldiers used to protect the fortress.  Walking along the high walls, you can almost imagine yourself as a soldier peering through the slits to shoot your arrows at the enemy.

            T stopped into an art gallery and found a painting she liked of the canal.  Unfortunately it was already spoken for, but the artist is going to paint one for us and it will be shipped home.  It’s be a great reminder of this area and the walks we took along the canal.  Lower cite established in the 1300’s is quite populated.  

All three of us had a wonderful afternoon in this “fairytale-like” village.  What a great place to be able to check out. 

            Thursday, March 29, 2012 – This AM was like every other morning lately, get up around 8:30 – 9, make a coffee (M bought a small espresso pot as we’re out in the country and the cafes are further away).  Probably pay for that pot this week in amount not spent in cafes.  Now being the true engineer, he wants to perfect the timing of the brew… fine by T. 

            It’s a leisure day with all three of us enjoying the warm 27 C weather and a great walk along the canal for over an hour.  We can tell the workout program is helping J, as not once did he complain about the walk – this wouldn’t have happened earlier in our trip.  We had a great chat with Cleide, the owner,  finding about what it’s like to live in Southern France as a foreigner – not so easy to break into things.  After three years, they still feel not at home….

            Friday, March 30, 2012 – After baking quiche for breakfast and folding laundry, and J completing his final math exam, we decided to go for a drive to the little village of Minerve, about 40 min from here.  It’s not so far in distance so much as narrow windy roads and having to travel through a number of small villages before getting there.  Upon arrival we are greeted to a wonderful of the gorge that this small village is near – a wonderful surprise!

            This little village was home of the Cathars who built their village into gorge.  It did act as a deterrent for attack, but the Romans got to them just them same!  Nowadays, it’s a quaint village, welcoming some tourists to wander the couple of narrow streets with a couple of museums, art gallery and one small hotel.   There are remains of the tower that existed during the Cathars.  We parked above the village and walked down into it, as only locals are allowed to drive on the couple of streets that exists.  There is no place for parking within. 

            We had a wonderful lunch at a restaurant yet again recommended by Rick Steeves at the Relais , and had a fabulous menu du jour which had us try different foods and enjoying each course.  It was J’s first “nouveau cuisine” experience and he did well trying each course and enjoying most things, some more than others.  On our way out, T bought a couple of cards from the art gallery to keep. We drove along the crest of the gorge for a while and then meandered along secondary roads through fields of vines, most well tended.  Some had workers in them pruning the vines for the new growth season.  We passed a couple of large chateaux amongst the fields of vines.  It was a great afternoon of seeing some of the rural spots in this region of France.

           

            Saturday, March 31, 2012 - We had a slow morning, had J finish his last math assignment for the year (Hurray!) One course down and high fives all around!  We went for food supplies for Sunday as well as went out to get J a treat for his hard work. 
            When finished his work, J went with Henry in search of lizards.  They managed to catch a few.  It’s a beautiful day, yet again.  While J is hanging with Henry, we decided to go for another walk along the canal to Trebes, the town where we’ve been going for groceries. It’s about a 45 min walk along the plane tree lined canal to the lock system right outside of the town.  We checked out the three leveled system then retraced our track to return to the gite. 

            By the time we returned, everyone was ready for a late lunch.  The rest of the day was spent hanging out, enjoying the sunshine, and countryside.  The trees have begun to bud now, it’s a change from earlier this week. We Skyped a few family today and enjoyed all the conversations.  We’re leaving tomorrow AM, so some of our time is spent packing and organizing to make the departure stress-free and on time. We end the day by all watching one of our CDs, the movie Bridge to Terabithia, a wonderful family story and a great way to end the week.