Sunday 2 October 2011

Update from Rome Italy


September 18 - Sunday  After breakfast we headed out to Siena to return to the art gallery to buy a painting we had seen the other day  With that bought and shipping arranged for home, we had accomplished our first “task”.  Next was to find the Mailboxes Etc. outlet so we can send a parcel home, and we had learned, substantially cheaper than sending DHL or Fed Ex. As the artist had said we could of course walk there, we decided to walk to locate it. Siena was very busy today with many tour groups milling about near the center so leaving it behind was great.  We walked along many narrow streets which we hadn’t been on before in other parts of the old city, but weren’t successful in finding it.  We were hot and tiring, so we decided to return to the car - we got our exercise in for the day... later we realized that as the artist lived in the walled city of Siena, asking if we could walk there gave us no indication of how far the walk might be, as those that live in these walled cities walk everywhere!  Once back in the vehicle, we did use Navi to help us find our way to the depot, only to see that it was closed for siesta (and that we had almost made it there when we turned around from our walk).  We return tomorrow to ship our package.
            We drove back to Buonconvento to enjoy the afternoon by the pool.  For dinner, we’ve been invited to eat with Guiliana, Luca, Graziella and Luigi and  Guiliana’s father and wife, from England.  Tonight Graziella is going to show us her way of making risotto, learning another way will be great.  We are all looking forward to the dinner.  Guiliana came and knocked on our door to let us know it was time to watch Graziella make the risotto.  With Luca and Guiliana providing some translation when necessary, we watched Graziella prepare mushroom risotto.
            It was a beautiful evening out, so we dined al fresco, and enjoyed a wonderful dish of risotto, followed by pork escalopes and peas with panchetta. We brought over a bottle of the Brunello from the winery we visited so Luca and Guiliana could try some as he wanted to buy a couple of bottles to bring back to Australia when they returned next month.  They agreed that it was a great wine to buy.   Everything was delicious and we had a great time sharing stories.  The weather was changing as we could see sheet lightning out in the distance, and before we went to bed, the storm arrived.

            September 19 - Monday -  Before breakfast, Luca and Guiliana come to say goodbye as they are leaving for a few days.  It was great to get to know them through many chats over these two weeks. They really added to our stay.   After breakfast, we headed out to Siena to Mailboxes Etc. to mail our parcel.  It was 60% of the price for a box twice the size as what we had sent home a month previous.  Right on!
            We returned to the apt and picked up our laundry and headed back into Buonconvento to get it done.  While the laundry was going, J did school work while M went to find a few school supplies.  In just over an hour, we finished a couple of assignments and the laundry was finished.  We returned to have lunch and J needed to finish another assignment before heading out to the pool. It was a cooler today, but still in the mid 20’s.  T decided to go for a walk to enjoy the sunshine and her last afternoon in Tuscany.  It was a great temperature with a light breeze, quite different from last week when it was in the mid 30’s during the afternoons.  Several times she stopped to soak in the sites - it has definitely been one of her favorite stops in Italy - one to come back to again someday!
            It’s M’s birthday today and he wanted to go out for dinner.  On Guiliana and Grazielle’s recommendation, we went to a restaurant at an inn Albergo de Borga.  We had a wonderful meal in a great place.  We weren’t disappointed!

            September 20 - Tuesday - Today we’re leaving Tuscany to go to Roma. We didn’t have any hot water this AM, so Luigi had us go use a shower in another apartment. We’re packed and ready to go by 10.   We say our goodbyes the Italian way to Luigi and Graziella and we drive off.  We stop in Buonconvento so M can find a barbieri to get his haircut - yesterday it was closed.  J decided that he wanted to get his hair trimmed too.  So, T goes into the hairdresser shop and finds out that J can get his haircut in 10 min. We finally leave near 11:45 and decide to drive on some secondary roads before getting on the autostrata to enter Rome.  It is a very relaxed and enjoyable drive. We decide to stop at a trattiatoria in a small town to have lunch, it’s very good and the prices are really reasonable in this multi-family run eatery.  While we are driving to Roma, J does some schoolwork.  We arrive in the outskirts of Rome before rush hour which contributes to a fairly relaxing drive. 
            As we near the city, things start to get busier and extra attention is needed to negotiate the lanes and roads Navi is guiding us on.  Our small boutique hotel is in the Campo de’ Fiori area, which we knew from T’s cousin Alan who recommended the hotel, that it is close to everything.  Enroute to the hotel, we are surprised to find us driving by the Rome Coliseum - WOW is it ever big!  We continue to negotiate roads and traffic circles with many lanes but no markings - makes for some exciting or nerve racking driving depending on the nerves.  Navi leads us to the hotel, which we find is on a limited traffic cobbled road.  It’s an old section of Rome so of course the roads are narrow and the conglomeration of parking styles adds to some creative navigating through these streets.  Fortune would have it that M is able to scam a parking spot along a lane while T goes to check in to the hotel, find out about parking and find out where the apartment is. 
            There is no parking at the hotel or apt. and are told that we could go out and find a spot anywhere with white lines in the centro  - ah, not willing to do that as we have no desire to leave the vehicle on the street for a week.  So, we are told they can phone the hotel across the lane and see if they have a spot.  They do have one, and T makes the decision, to pay for parking.
            We unload the myriad of bags into the lobby of the hotel, while M backs the car up to the other hotel and carefully maneuvers our car into the opening of the ramp to lead up to the parking.  The opening is so narrow that he decides to activate the button to pull in the side mirrors, because the width of the ramp is so narrow.  Once he gets up to the top of the ramp, he has no idea where to park the vehicle as there are many other cars parked here - not your typical parkade.  Here the cars are parked a couple of inches apart - even tougher than the parking situation on the Amalfi coast.
            Once back at the hotel, with the aid of a couple of young gentlemen who work at the hotel front desk to where the apt is.  It is across the square from the hotel, one street back. We walk along the narrow lanes, which we do see some scooters and small cars come down, but we don’t even want to consider it and come to our apartment.  It is in a building which is narrow and likely 5 stories.  The stairway up to the apt is well-worn marble, narrow and quite steep.  Reminded T of Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre apartment staircase.  The apt is quite spacious, fairly modern and has air conditioning which is much appreciated. 
            Once we put the suitcases away in the bedroom cupboards, we are off in search of the grocery store to stock up on some supplies.  Armed with a map secured at the front desk, we are off.  The roadways are many, narrow and non-symmetrical, so negotiating them can be somewhat challenging, but, we do manage to find our way.   We pick up a few things, but knowing there is a daily market in our square, cuts down on the amount of things we buy at the store. 
            After dinner, M and T go for a walk into the square and find a bar to have a cappuccino, the place is called the Drunken Ship, the American bar...  Happened to be 2 for 1 ladies night, so T paid and got both coffees, for 2 Euro - Scored! as J would say.  There were signs indicating international student specials - it’d be a cool city to go to school in.  The square is busy with tourists as its one of the places to “check out” in Rome. 

            September 21 - Wednesday - Our first full day in Rome and we are have a private guided tour of the Vatican booked for 9:30.   Before leaving, T is advised to change her shirt as the sleeves might be considered too short and M’s shorts might be too short.  We hurry back to the apt and change. 
            We meet Luisa, our guide, at the hotel lobby and from there we take a cab to the Vatican.  It isn’t too far from the hotel and as we drive along the road, we drive up to St. Peter Basilica displayed in all its glory.  We drive by it and go around the Vatican walls to the rear where the entrance of the museum is located.  The lineup is enormous, several hundred people and our guide tells us, its about a 2 hour wait to buy tickets.  We were told that in the summer months it is even busier. 
            With our guide, we don’t have to wait in line - well worth the money!! and we enter near an entrance designed in 1929 when the Vatican became a state.  The Vatican is enclosed behind an enormous brick wall.  The entrance area to the Vatican museums is new - commissioned for the Jubilee year 2000.  It is definitely a welcome addition to help with the movement of all the tourists that visit here each day.


            Our first stop within the museum is to look at a scale model of the Vatican.  It is quite impressive to see how vast this area is.  





We get an explanation of some of the buildings as well as where we are going to be visiting.   We found out that various popes added buildings to this state.  As well, with each pope in the early times, they often added rooms or art collections, galleries to buildings in their honor. 
            Our museum tour took us through the Belvedere Palace where we saw examples of Roman sculptures fashioned after Greek sculptures.   








Some pretty incredible sculptures to look at. Next we walked through the Upper Galleries, again, filled with wonderful works of art, sculptures, and tapestries.  The tapestries were woven reproductions of masterpieces painted by artists such as Rapheal. They were immense and very detailed.
            We visited the Gallery of the Maps named after the maps painted on the walls in 40 different panels, each devoted to a region, island or particular territory of Italy.  It was amazing the detail of these as they were done through study in 1400’s, and presented as though the viewer is a couple thousand feet in the air. When M looked at the old map vs. new map of Italy as today, the maps were quite accurate, even though at that time they could only imagine what the topography would look like from a few thousand feet above surface.  The room was set up entering south to north and we enjoyed looking at each panel seeing where we had visited in Italy.  Of course, many of the names were different when these maps were done.  It was probably one of the most interesting stops so far for J in the Vatican as he really enjoys geography.







            After the galleries, we walked down to the Sistine Chapel. It is the site where the conclave for the election of the popes is held.  The exterior of this large rectangle building with a barrel-vaulted ceiling is very simple.  Upon entering, it takes your breath away as to the complexity of the artwork in here.  The room was crowded, with standing room only.  We envied the people who found a seat around the perimeter of the chapel as they could sit and gaze up at the paintings without straining their necks.  We discovered that the frescoes on the long walls illustrate parallel events in the Lives of Moses and Christ by Botticelli, et al. before Michelangelo painted the entire ceiling between 1508 and 1512 for Julius II. He painted the ceiling using a technique of painting right onto wet plaster, so he only worked on one section at a time. The ceiling shows people from all walks of life waiting for the coming of the Messiah. More than twenty years later, he came back to paint the Last Judgment on the wall behind the altar. He worked on it for 5 years.  Again, the wall is amazing, the detail mind-boggling. Words cannot describe the beauty, and to those that like our photos, like many pieces of art in museums and galleries we could not take any pictures of these amazing works.
            From the chapel we left the museums to go visit San Pietro (St. Peter’s) Basilica - the largest Catholic Church in the world - it’s enormous.  We found out the Michelangelo designed the cupola, but it was finished after his death.  There was a beautiful sculpture done by him at the age of 24, in the church called la pieta -  Virgin Mary holding Jesus after the crucifixion - a beautiful piece of art.  There is so much to see and admire in this church.  There are a number of tombs of past popes at various altars where some we could actually see the corpse and some where statues - somewhat eerie.  We were told that under the basilica there are tombs of other popes. 









The piazza outside of San Pietro was now virtually empty compared to the times we have see the square on TV when the Pope is addressing the crowds.  The bordering esplanades reminded us of outstretched hands gathering/ beckoning people to the church - clever design. 



Our tour lasted 3 hours and we were ready to call it quits after that.  We asked our guide Luisa for a recommendation of a restaurant off the tourist path - a few blocks from the Vatican.  We had a great lunch and rest before we walked back to our apartment.  It was a twenty or so minute walk which took us along the tree-lined walkway above the Tiber River.  It is quite warm today, so the shaded walk is welcomed.  There are so many incredible buildings that line the roadway, it is a pleasure to look around. 





            Back at the apt. we chill for a while, and then J gets down to doing some assignments.  After dinner, M and T take a bottle of wine over to the Campo de’ Fiori hotel which owns our apt and go up to the roof top terrace.  The view is very nice and we have an enjoyable hour or two, watching the night sky change and try to pick out landmarks we can recognize from above and having a great chat.   J enjoys some downtime watching a movie.

            September 22 - Thursday  We meet Eliza, today’s guide, at the hotel lobby for 9:30 for a tour of the Coliseum.  A short taxi ride and we arrive outside this beautiful structure.  Again, with the guide, it is quick order to get into the site.  We are given a history lesson on it before we enter.  It was built in the 1st century, taking 8 years and 55,000 slaves to complete it.  We are shown where the metal nails were removed to melt down for other purposes which then resulted in the marble facade falling off during an earthquake in the 11th century.  At one time the entire building was encased in white marble, but now that is not the case.  Not many spectator seats exist here compared to the one in Verona we had seen in July.  We are filled in about the floor that is partially uncovered so we can see the “under ground” passageways the slaves used to move the animals around to prepare for the “entertainment”  The gladiators, who were prisoners could earn their freedom through victories against opponents be it human or animal. 




            Once we left here, we went on a tour of the ancient ruins of the Emperors’ Palace, Roman Forum, the aqueduct that carried the water into ancient Rome, and archaeological sites of early century piazzas.  We saw remains of the ancient road into the Forum, and temples for some of their gods.  Some of the buildings were quite the architectural wonders which people such as Michelangelo drew inspiration for in designing other places. An example, the Roman Forum basilica (government meeting place) was an inspiration for designing St. Peter’s Basilica. 









            Once we finished here, we said goodbye to our guide and walked back to the apt.  We didn’t have our map with us (T forgot it), so we brought the Iphone and Goggle maps into play to help us out.  






Once back, we ate lunch and same routine as yesterday, schoolwork for J, while we chill up on the terrace to enjoy a cool one in the warm sunshine.  

            September 23 - Friday  Today we are off to the catacombs of San Priscilla with our guide Elena.  The catacombs were developed as underground cemeteries because in the 1st to 4th centuries, Rome as a pagan state outlawed Christianity, so burials were done in secret.  They were outside the walls of ancient Rome, but today they are within the boundaries of Rome.  It was about a 15 min. cab ride to arrive at the entrance of the catacombs, which is within the walls of a building that looks just like any other building along the street.  There are a number of these burial sites around Rome, our guide chose one where she could guide us instead of having to join a large group.
            We pay our entrance fee and our guide presents us with the history of the place before we go through a door, down a couple of flights of stairs to the entrance door to the catacombs.  Once inside we would feel the humidity and were engulfed in narrow passage ways which branch off in various directions.  There are 4 levels of tunnels here and we come across frescoed walls, ceramic/marble fragments of past tomb signs.  Along the walls where past tombs were located, they are “stacked” atop of one another.  It’s a very impressive network and one could likely get turned around easily in the darkened corridors.  There was even a noble home which had become part of the catacomb network which historians figured had been donated to the catacombs.  It was interesting to find that the exit out of this part of the network was onto the street behind and slightly lower than the entrance we used to enter.
            While touring we even saw early forms of graffiti - red paint used to mark/draw symbols to signify a family tomb and 18th century dates etched into walls with people’s names of who discovered and returned to explore the catacombs.  It was interesting to  learn that these specific catacombs were basically forgotten until the 17th century or so until someone was digging in the area and came across them.  We were glad we had chosen to go here. 
            Our last stop for the day was to St. Clementine Church, 4 churches built atop of another dating back to before the 4th century.  It was an history lesson on the development of Christianity.  We were able to tour all 4 levels ending with the upper most one which is used today. 




            We said goodbye to Elena and decided to walk in search of a ticket outlet to see if we can get Series A soccer tickets for Sunday’s afternoon Lazio vs. Palermo game.  While we were making our way toward the shop, following the ever ready tourist map we came across a street which T recalled is where her friend, Ali, formerly of Fort McMurray was living.  We were going to be going there for dinner the next night.  As T realized this, she told M and J, while an Italian couple were standing at the gate.  They heard Ali and Pasquale’s name - and began to speak in Italian to T.  As this was happening, their son, who spoke English arrived.  Through conversing, he said he thought Ali was home, so he buzzed her on the intercom.  She was home, so we had our reunion a day early and an impromptu visit and rest before going on. 
            Of course, once we arrived at the ticket office, it was closed for siesta.  We’ll have to come back.  We decide to continue to walk back to the apt. and perhaps find a place along the way to eat at.  As we are walking down a side street, away from tourist traffic, we come across La Carbonara ristorante.  A gentleman sitting outside having a smoke, told us it’s a must to eat at.  We go in and are told they are full.  He goes in after we tell him this and he says, there’ll be a table for us in 10 min. or so if we want to wait.  We decide to wait and we are not disappointed.  The restaurant has been around since 1906.  It is this narrow strip of an entrance where the bar and kitchen are which leads into a room that had maybe 8 small tables. 

The place is packed with locals and the plates  of carbonara pasta going by beckon us to try the house pasta.  We have a great meal in another cool spot. 
            Once filled with pasta, we are ready to continue our walk back to the apt. which takes about 40 min. or so.  J is a good trooper as we walked in the bright sunshine, temperature in the high 20’s.  We leave J back at the apt to work on school work, while M and T walk back to the ticket office.  We arrive there and find their are tickets available but they require documentation - picture id for each person.  We had ours, but not J’s so we need to go back.  This time, we hail a cab to take us back.  We pick up J’s passport and begin walking back yet again.  Part way, we decide to hail another cab!  We arrive at the shop, present the info and get good tickets not far off the field.  Finally, the task is done and we decide to walk back again.  By the time we get back to the apt. we are tired out and have a cold one!  We decide to hang out at the apt as our feet have told us they’re done for the day.

            September 24 - Saturday  No tour today, and we are all up for that as it has been information overload these last few days.  We were looking forward to kicking back today.  M and T decide to go down to the Piazza Campo de’Fiori to soak up the atmosphere and sit at one of the many cafes for a cappuccino.  We decide to pay the extra cost of sitting at a table vs. standing at the bar and quickly drink our coffee.  It’s fun to watch the comings and goings, people watch, and just enjoy the lifestyle.  Once finished with the coffees, we go further into the square to get a fresh loaf of bread for lunch and pick up a few items from the daily market in the piazza.  It is really busy with locals and many tourists going through the stalls, deciding what to buy.  We also stop at the local butcher shop to buy some veal and sausages.  The guys in the shop are very friendly and funny, we enjoy our conversation. 
            This afternoon we went out in search of the Pantheon, another one of the “must-see” sites in Rome.  This Roman temple was built over 1800 years ago and has this enormous unreinforced concrete dome.  It has been a Catholic church since the 7th century.  The entrance has these huge pillars reminiscent of Greek architecture at the entrance, but the remainder of the church is a rotunda. 



            Tonight we have been invited for dinner at a couple who we had met in Fort McMurray a few years ago.  They have been in Rome for a year now where Pasquale is VP of Exxon’s Italian operations.  When we knew we were coming to Rome, T emailed Ali to see if we could hook up and everything fell into place to get together.  We took a taxi and the drive to the apt. was quite entertaining as Saturday nights Rome is hopping and traffic is busy.  Driving along some of the roads which at times have no lines to indicate lanes and traffic circles which have many lanes of traffic, but are not marked, makes for a wild experience.  Our cabbie threaded the needle one time in front of a bus which had M and T look at each other with eyes wide and eyebrows raised - crazy!
            Our evening with Pasquale and Ali was wonderful - filled with great food, wine and conversation while dining al fresco on their terrace.  J was treated to an unexpected night with the Wii - giving him his fix until Dec. when we return home for a month. We left around midnight and the cab fare we found is set from where the cabbie actually accepts his call from - so, the meter can already be over 4 Euro and we are just stepping into the cab!  The ride back wasn’t quite so wild, but we did see lots of police presence in the busy sections.  We arrived near our hotel and our cabbie asked if he could drop us off on the main road because Campo de’ Fiori on a Sat. night is wall to wall people.  Indeed, as we walked toward our apt. behind the piazza the square and roads leading into it were filled with people enjoying the wonderful warm evening.

            September 25 - Sunday  This morning, M and T decide to go down into the piazza and have a cappuccino and enjoy the atmosphere.  We get to observe the local regulars as well as the tourists.  We do enjoy people watching and of course, love the caps in Italy.  While the boys do things around the apartment, T decides to go explore and walk along the river wall as the map indicates the walk way follows along both sides of the river.  Like the walkway the other day there are beautiful large trees, just beginning to change color the overhand the walkway and river walls.  It is wonderful to have this within the middle of this hectic city.  We are told there are a number of very large parks in Rome to enjoy.  There are so many beautiful old palaces, churches, and buildings to enjoy looking at.  If one was only able to see one Italian city, Rome should definitely be it.  There is so much to see and do here.  We have had an absolute wonderful week.  It certainly helped that we were staying in a great location, handy to everything. 
            We decided to take a taxi to the Olympic Stadium instead of bussing, as we weren’t sure of the transfers etc.  The taxi dropped us near the Olympic Piazza and we found our way to our entrance area.  The soccer fans here remind us of the hockey mania fans at home.  Most fans had jerseys, scarves, flags or dressed in the home team Lazio colors.  Our hotel staff couldn’t understand why we were going to a Lazio game instead of Roma.  It’s like the rivalry between Edmonton Oilers and Calgary Flames.  We told them, we understood, but we just wanted to see a soccer game.  They still shook their heads!  We just chuckled - thinking about the parallel. 
            The game began at 3 and fortunately we were sitting in the shady part of the stadium for most of the game.  It was hot today.  There were some goal posts hit, but no goals for either team.  It was disappointing not to get to hear the home crowd cheer a goal.  It was funny to hear them chirp like birds when they did not like a call, its like the whole place erupts. 

            The game was over by 5 and we find there are no taxis outside the stadium.  We decide to cross the river and walk along the river and see if we can catch one.  This also proves impossible as all the taxis that pass have fares.  Meanwhile we continue to walk toward our hotel.  An hour later, we arrive in Campo de’ Fiori piazza.  We go in search of a restaurant recommended by the hotel.  First one we can’t find and the second isn’t open until 7.  So, we go back to the apt for an hour and then return.
            This restaurant proves to be somewhat amusing - if not irritating to M.  Firstly, we’re asked if we want red or white wine, red we reply and a bottle is plunked on the table.  J notices that the red is in a white bottle - must be out of a cask?   We asked about it - “Don’t worry, we will only charge you for how much you drink of the bottle”  Ookaay.   Next, we try to order.  J asks fopr the special of gnocci but is told they have none left, so the waitress suggests pasta instead. J says OK, but we wonder how can the special be sold out when we arrived within 30 minutes of the restaurant opening? M and T both want ossobucco.  The waitress says - have ossobucco and one oxtail....  M looks at her strangely, thinking, not what I want.  T says, ok, to the braised oxtail, might as well try it.  After questioning her further, we find she only has one serving of osso left.  Ah, that’s the issue.  Alright, we’ll give it a try.  The meal arrived in different stages - which is typical Italian, but not in the “typical” Italian fashion we have learned to expect while over here.  The meat dishes do arrive, and yes both are delicious.  So, she wasn’t just scamming us!  Anyways, everything did turn out ok, but it was touch and go at the beginning.

            September 26 - Monday  Our last day in Rome, first things first, laundry.  Well the self serve lavaderia is supposed to be open at 9, but it’s 9:15 and no one is here.  Ok, let’s head to the cafe for a morning cap and then return in a bit.  M decides to go into the bar to buy our coffees, they only cost 2 Euro for both.  Yesterday while we did some ass parking at one of their tables it cost 7 Euro.  Yes, in Italy, if you drink at the bar, it costs less than if you occupy one of their tables on their terrace.  However, once you park your butt, they don’t hurry you out for the next patron.  So, it’s all about what you want to accomplish that day - a quick pick me up or hanging out to soak up the scene. We had a laugh that we could now exactly price ‘ass parking’ in Rome, 5 Euro per chair.
            Coffee finished, we return to the laundromat and it is now open.  We load the washer and quickly see that getting there early has netted us a machine right away vs. having to wait  at least 30 min for a free machine.  J is back at the apt busy with schoolwork.  We are trying to get as much internet research time done ahead of time as we don’t know what service is going to like in the next few weeks as we make our way through Greece and Turkey. 
            While the guys are completing paperwork, T decides to go for a walk to find the famous Trevi fountain.  Armed with the tourist map, off she goes and finds it about 30 min. later.  It is a beautiful piece of art located in front of yet another wonderfully designed church.  The courtyard is very crowded with tourists, but T does manage to find a spot along a wall overlooking the fountain from the side to admire this beautiful marble sculpture. 

T enjoys wandering the streets and admiring the buildings, much more so than M and J, and this walk does not disappoint her.
            When she returned to the apt. M came with her to walk the bridge circuit she had gone on the day before, but cut it short when a rain shower came up.  We spent some of the day packing our suitcases and packing our supply bags which contain some basic supplies we carry from one apt. to another.  We visit the local butcher after siesta time to pick up something for dinner.  We stop at the local bakery for some wonderful hard crusted bread for tomorrow’s breakfast and enjoy a couple of mojitos at a bar in the piazza to once again soak up the scene.
            With dinner out of the way and everything ready for tomorrow’s departure, we are ready to go up on the rooftop terrace of the hotel for one last evening and share a bottle of Brunello.  The rain is no longer and issue, sky is clear, and its fairly warm out.  A great way to end our last evening in Rome.



            September 27 - Tuesday We are checking out today.  M let the parking garage know yesterday that he wanted the car for 9:30 this am.  They need a day’s notice as the cars are parked so close together, they at times have to move multiple cars in order to get one car out.  While T was chatting with the receptionist at the hotel and checking out, M picked up the car and backed it up the road toward the hotel so we could load it.  There is so little space in front of the hotel, that this is the sensible way to approach the space crunch. We said goodbye at the hotel - we enjoyed the staff who were always pleasant and we often chatted when we went through the small lobby to go to the terrace, or wait for our guide.  
            Car packed and Navi set, we leave the hotel area and head out. We get stuck in traffic, take a wrong turn or two, lots of traffic and it takes us about 45 min. to get out of the city.  We decide to head on the autostrata that goes slightly north to the east coast to see some of Italy we have not seen, and then head straight down to Bari, Puglia.  Avoiding Napoli and its crazy drivers isn’t a bad idea.  The drive across on our chosen route is a breeze with little traffic.  The scenery through the interior is varied - villages perched on hilltops, some fairly high hills, and ranch land.  As we near the coast, the olive trees and vineyards become prevalent once again.  We hadn’t been on the northern part of this highway, but about 50 km south of Pescara, we now drove on road we had driven on in early May when we were in Vieste.  
            We went straight to the Superfast Ferry ticket office to pick up our tickets for the overnight sail to Igoumenitsa, Greece.  It was 4:30 when we arrived at the port, and initial boarding for the 8 PM sailing was at 5.  So, we didn’t have to wait long and decided to get on board and locate the overnight berth we had secured.  It was a very nice ship, J was very impressed with the whole thing, kind of like a cruise ship.  We had dinner on board, then retired to our room to watch a movie before going to sleep.

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